In which bicycles and beer feature quite strongly….
Yes, the bicycles are cracked out of Horatio’s garage – first time they have seen the light of day since our multiple lake trip a year ago – sacré bleu! Worse, we are considering relegating them to a garage in Dorset just as soon as we have found a couple of electric bikes which are now deemed essential – not just for camping trips but also as our new gaff in France is at the top of a rather steep hill. Great for the view, not so much for non-motorised access.
Meantime, after B has performed the essential tyre pumping – surprisingly all 4 were just soft, not flat, after a year of neglect. After having consumed both beer and wine the night before, we were probably a little dehydrated, but set off after 2 large mugs of tea each, forgetting to take any water bottles with us – doh!
We made leisurely progress on pathways alongside the lake across the road for the campsite, heading for the next town up the valley and hoping for level progress. Surprisingly we got just that, although the lake turned out to be a dammed river, and rivers flow downhill and we were against the flow. We skirted a farmyard and several parts of the track were really more for walkers but nobody seemed to mind us being on bikes.
We were soon in the outskirts of a pretty town called Esterri d’Aneu, at first not so promising as we went past the bus station and the fire station – labelled, somewhat amusingly, “Bombers”. My Spanish is limited to some food items, wine and beer and Hola, so I am not sure if that is Spanish or Catalan, as we are indeed in Catalonia.
Esterri d’Aneu river approach
Bridges over the Rio Noguera Palleresa
We wandered about and finally settled on a café for coffee (beer comes later) and propped our bikes up on the corner. It was a pedestrian zone, but inevitably a car turns up and wants to nose into where the bikes are to then reverse via B’s chair into a lane opposite. Ten minutes later it leaves, down the side road where the bikes had been replaced. Despite all the reconvening the coffee was very nice “Americano” so long, but much more drinkable than Starbucks (sorry for swearing).
A bit more wandering and we spot a rather nice restaurant terrace next to a garden area which has a huge menu in multiple languages and strives to cater for coeliacs and vegans which has me wondering if they flock to the mountains for their health as we are in a spot which you have to want to reach, rather than just stumble across. Although, come to think of it, in our naivety we did just stumble across it….
Time for a beer – San Miguel today, a change from yesterday’s Estrella. Beer taps around here seem to be for decoration, so more bottles with a bracing 5.4% alcohol content. Only one then, as I am a bit wobbly on my 2 wheels (I blame the handlebar basket which is the only place to put stuff and gives the front end a will of its own).
B had a local sausage with haricot beans – no, not in tomato sauce, but drowned in garlic instead so I had to eat some to balance things, if you get my drift. I had veal carpaccio and patatas bravas. Unlike my experience of these potatoes at Tapas places in Blighty, where they seem to come in spicy tomato sauce, here they come with a huge dollop of spicy marie rose style sauce. Yum!
After another nice Americano we then got back in the saddle and meandered back to the site, feeling pleased with ourselves, though in truth I don’t think we clocked up many miles at all, but as I forgot to use my cycle app we are, for the moment, blissfully ignorant of our likely lack of achievement!
Most of the route is on pathways, but there is a small section you have to do on the road – about 200m – as we popped out on the left hand side and the road was empty, it being Sunday and still lunchtime, we decided to scoot along that side without crossing the road twice. About 20m from the turn off a car appeared – but not just any car – this one was blue, with a light on top and uniforms inside. Happily for us, they must have been heading for their lunch as they pulled around us without even wagging a finger!
The other breath holding moment was of a totally different kind – a close encounter with a remarkably unperturbed red squirrel. We viewed each other curiously for a few moments and then he continued his scamper up a tree next to the pathway. Beautiful.
That evening we had more beer as naturally we had earned that in the saddle, and then, as it always seems like a good idea at the time, rather too much wine with our snack dinner, and a totally unnecessary digestif after that.
The next morning we did feel a little jaded, but despite that attempted the ride right around the lake the lady at reception said was possible. Well, it might be if you are a mountain goat (on a bike?!) and don’t mind huge diversions up said mountains. However, we wimped it first in one direction and then the other, when the lake was no longer in evidence and we were climbing away from the river which flows into it. But we did put in a good 90 minutes of cycling so went back to the campsite for another beer. And more patatas bravas (becoming my new addiction). Forgot to use the app again, but we felt that the amount of time used meant we deserved a break, which lasted all afternoon – not at the bar, but in the loungers!
A couple of shots of the lake at La Guingeta.
Another beer in the bar beckons now though…… 😉