28-30 September, mixed sun and cloud, wine and castles.
Photos to follow (not yet downloaded from the camera!)
Only about 50 miles north of Basel is the Alsace region. Notable for its wines and for being variously French and German changing about 7 times in the last 200 years! Although its now French, everyone seemed to either be German or speaking it. All the place names are German and all the streets, though named in French, also carry the German translation as well. It was so confusing I didn’t know what language to use at the campsites.
We travelled to Equisheim on the 28th, a Friday, and stayed in a lovely site in walking distance from the “exceptional” village. That was the book description and it lived up to it. A central main street (pedestrians only) with concentric rings of houses and cobbled streets mirroring the erstwhile ramparts and moat. It is one of the “plus belles villages de France” (most beautiful villages of France) – truly. All the houses are half timbered, in a pristine state of repair, and all different colours. Every one sported geraniums in window boxes or outside somewhere. The original inhabitants must have been somewhat short, however, as every doorway was about half height!
We ate cassoulet for the second time of the trip, and ended up stuffed for the second time – we should have remembered!
The next day we got up early (!) to go to Colmar centre on Kymi. Colmar is a large town with a lovely old centre on a canal, so therefore called Petite Venise. A very very pretty area, with half timbered houses, all colours of the rainbow, bordering the canal. The render between the timbers is chamfered and proud of the timbers between. The timbers are notched which B says means they would originally have been covered by render too. Some buildings still were and had trompe d’oeil painting on them – of timbers, mullions and other decorative building features. Fascinating.
Then we relocated to a campsite in Ribeauville via Kaysersberg and its castle, and by-passing Riquewehr, which we then visited later on Kymi. Our visit coincided with a local event – the Venician Parade. We watched a procession of elegant, intricate, inspired and intriguing outfits in the spirit of the historic Venician Masked balls. The effect was bizarre and spooky – spooky due to the masks, you could just see their eyes but even their hair and necks were covered with snoods and elaborate headdresses, and bizarre – the eclectic mix of German speaking French in France depicting an Italian scene. Which country are we in?! Whappened?!
All the villages are on the Route du Vin (wine route) for the Moselle region, all get stars on the Michelin map and all are stunning. We felt we didn’t do them or the area justice by flitting in and out so quickly. Another region which took us totally by surprise and is on the Must Go Back List.
All featured more quirky half timbered brightly coloured houses, some with carved timbers, more houses with trompe d’oeils, and behind on the hills, castles so many more castles. We had already visited 4 from Eguisheim – Les Trois Chateaux together on one hill (all ruins with just partial towers left) and a fourth further along the same road (closed for restoration, large crane in position).
In fact most of the castles in the area are in ruins, but the French decided to give one to the Germans at the turn of the century before the First World War. Kaiser Wilhem III set to and fully restored it, just in time for the war, after which he had to give it back to the French under the Treaty of Versaille. (Smart move – they must drink Fosters.)
That castle is Haut-Koenigsbourg, and we visited that last thing before leaving the region, on Kymi, having got up early again (!! On a Sunday too!!). Again, it lived up to the guide book description and was a fitting finale to our trip (this trip!) before the run to Calais.
As with all the castles in the area it is constructed of local pink sandstone, giving it a fairy tale quality. All turrets and towers and a windmill. Yes, a windmill, right on top, that’s a new one on us… Inside they had another event – locals depicting medieval life and trades, that meant no audioguides – probably just as well based on our experiences of those last year.
The chateau is a Must Visit thats for sure. The restoration is remarkable. There are oak panelled rooms, painted ceilings, a whole herd of antlers and a huge boar’s head. (I am so glad not to have met the live version). Every room has its own tiled wood burner/boiler based on evidence from tiles found in the original ruins.
Outside the views are to die for. You can see the hills and mountains across the other side of the vast plain below. The hillsides just beneath are wooded, and below that criss crossed with vineyards. Its grape harvest time and the day before we had sampled “vin nouveau”. As in the German tradition, when the harvest is in progress, some of the grape juice is kept aside for the workers. Of course it ferments and as the harvest progresses, the grape juice becomes more alcoholic. Its fizzy and cloudy and not unpleasant – if you drink too much the hangover can be a killer (a previous, dimly remembered experience for me!).
B just said he would like to sample more another time!
As long as its not just before he launches us down the forest covered hillside from a castle via a sweeping majestic road with hairpin bends and his Harley head on – but we’re only on a scooter! Sacre Bleu!!