After Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne we took a longer run into the middle of the Massif Central, crossing from the Corrèze into Cantal, aiming for Salers – another medieval town perched on a hillside, this one surrounded by fields of bell-wearing Salers cattle – very bucolic – unfortunately none were available to feature in this shot.
We found a lovely municipal campsite on the hill just above the town, where we were welcomed by the manager – larger than life in both stature and character. He loved that we were English living in France – only the second English couple he has seen this year for obvious reasons. He also knew Sarlat well, having lived in Perigueux for some years. Mind you, the following day a couple arrived from the Basque region and suddenly he was their neighbour and friend having also lived in Bayonne for several years, so I did begin to wonder if he has lived everywhere in France at some point.
We planned to take the footpath linking the site to the town the following day. B wanted to use the bikes, but I wasn’t sure it was that sort of path when we looked at where it exited the site. In the event we didn’t go until later in the day as I had mild attack of vertigo in the morning, and for that reason I said we should walk. Lucky that, as the path was a rock-strewn mountain goat track at best! It was also somewhat longer than the promised 600m, this being France where accuracy is irrelevant, all information being more of a guide, but it did take us to the town so that bit was correct.
We entered the centre through one of the old gateways and found some lovely buildings, many with towers and turrets though none to climb this time. There was also a wonderful viewing point where you looked out over the neighbouring valley – and the cows grazing in it 😉
Salers is famous for its cheeses – both Cantal and the very local Salers made from milk from their own local cattle breeds. While B waited on a café terrace with a nice cold beer, I popped into a cheese shop across the road. Despite the current requirement to wear masks in most shops the owner insisted I try about 5 different cheeses before selecting those I wanted to buy. I came away with Cantal Tradition – an older and tastier version of the more widespread standard Cantal cheese, and a piece of even stronger Salers, so aged it was crumbling everywhere. Both are excellent with a good bottle of red wine from any region as we found when back at the campsite 😉
The next day, we headed back to the Dordogne via Pleaux, a small town we passed on the way up and which gets a mention in the local guide given to us by the campsite. In retrospect we realized we should have taken the chance to see Puy Mary, a nearby extinct volcano, one of many in the Massif Central. The good news is that gives us a good excuse to go back and experience the exuberant welcome from the campsite manager once again!
